The directions I provide build a workbench measuring 2′ wide x 8′ long and can adjust from 36″ to 56″ in height. This design probably could have been better, but I am working with what I got. After getting everything to the shop, it took about three hours to cut the wood and assemble the parts.ĭesign Overview: The general plan for this workbench is to create a reinforced frame of 2×4’s with a lower section that guides the sliding top section.
#Desk that moves up and down install
I did not have the capital to install linear actuators to power the adjustable part, so I had to think of something new.Īll of the materials for this table came from our local Home Depot and Harbor Freight, and I spent a little under $120 total. So I could not base my designs off of any market item. First thing that I found is that their are zero adjustable workbench size tables out in the market right now.
Stand up desks have been sweeping the business world and businesses like Google and Amazon are ordering more of these desks every week. There are a couple of ways to do this.Searching around the internet, I quickly found that there are zero workbench size stand up tables. Next, you’ll want to shorten all of the cables as much as you can so that they’re not dangling and causing an unsightly mess. Step Three: Wrap Cables Up and Plug Them In If it’s still pretty lose, tighten the screws down a bit until you finally get a snug fit from your power strip. To mount it, you would simply measure the distance between the holes, copy that to the desk or wall surface, and drive in screws, leaving them sticking out just a bit so that you can slide the power strip on.Īfter that, line up the power strip’s holes with the screws and slide it in place. The goal here is to get the power strip off of the floor and into a more ideal location so that all of your cables aren’t dangling all the way down to the floor.Īs for actually mounting the power strip, most (if not all) units have holes on the back where you can slide screw heads into them to secure them to a surface. However, if you have a regular desk, you could just mount it to the wall. If yours is the same, you’ll want to make sure to use short screws that won’t pierce through, as well as use a piece of tape on the drill bit so that you don’t drill all the way through the desk surface when drilling the pilot holes. However, my desk surface is only about an inch thick. This also allows all of the cables to remain static whenever I adjust the desk’s height. Since I have a standing desk that can move up and down, the best place to mount the power strip is on the underside of the desk, that way it’s mostly hidden and it moves with the desk whenever I switch it to standing or sitting mode. Perhaps the most important step is finding the best place to mount the power strip, because all of your cables will converge to that one point. Step Two: Mount the Power Strip to the Desk or Wall This makes things a bit easier, but it’s not absolutely necessary. You can stop right there if you want to, but you can also unplug everything from the other end and completely throw all the cables off to the side for a completely clean slate.
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